It's New to Us by Jean Stratton

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A Cornucopia of Super Choices Fills the Shelves at Bon Appetit

Bon Appetit is going strong! Established in 1967 in Princeton Shopping Center by Carl and Virginia Andersen, it has been owned since 1989 by Michel Lemmerling, who will celebrate his 15th anniversary in August.

"We had a similar store in Louvain, near Brussels – also a university town," says Mr. Lemmerling. "My great-grandfather started it in 1887, and I was the fourth generation to be involved. It began as a cheese shop and then gradually added other gourmet items, so it was the same type of store as this."

When the opportunity to acquire Bon Appetit came along, Mr. Lemmerling was intrigued. "My brother was here and a customer of this store, and I was interested in coming to the U.S."

He was proud to continue the family business in a new setting. "I wanted to recreate it in a typically European style here. The Lemmerling business is now 117 years old! This is my 40th year in the business. I was 20 when I started with my dad in Belgium."

Mr. Lemmerling has kept the quality high and continues to add new items to the already abundant selection. Known especially for its superb assortment of cheeses from all over the world (well over 200 different kinds), it also provides prepared foods, pates, top-of-the-line chocolate, gourmet items, and custom gift baskets.

"I love my cheese counter. It's my baby," says Mr. Lemmerling, who is renowned for his expertise on the subject. He is a Tastefromage, a member of Confrerie Brillat-Savarinne, a professional organization of cheese experts, a very elite group.

Recent Additions

He is proud of some recent additions to the cheese selection, including Windsor Blue from New Zealand and a very unusual 5-year-old gouda from Holland.

"I have a new raw milk cheese, Le Chartreux, which is rare, and we also have Hoch Ybrig from Switzerland, another raw milk cheese. A beautiful American specialty is the very unusual Cordona, a cocoa-covered cheese from Wisconsin."

Mr. Lemmerling is also happy to bring customers such specialties as high quality caviar, smoked fish, and assorted gourmet meats, including French-style charcuterie, real prosciutto, Spanish chorizo sausage, and Serrano ham from Spain.

Princeton has a sizable international population, he notes, and people from all over come to Bon Appetit. He says that sometimes Americans are reluctant to try new things, and he likes to introduce them to new tastes.

"Also, when someone comes to me and says 'I have a guest from Holland. Do you have Dutch cheese?' I'll say, 'Why not give them something different, not something they have all the time?'"

Customers will find the most intriguing items, beautifully displayed, in the attractive store.

Nuts of all kinds, a very big selection of olives, including lemon-flavored Spanish olives, the original Belle d' Cerignola, and an international mix, homemade at Bon Appetit, are available.

Balsamic vinegars are displayed along with 30 different oils, including avocado and three kinds of Macadamia.

Pink Salt

Where else would you find two shelves devoted to salt? Pink salt from the Himalayas, butcher salt, Hawaiian sea salt are all offered. Also, hard-to-find spices, such as Star Anise, Garama Masala, and citric acid are plentiful.

Gourmet honey, jams, jellies, sauces, chutneys, and crystallized ginger are in abundance, many in splendid boxes, tins, and jars from England, Scotland, and France. Domestic specialties include the quality Stonewall Kitchen products.

"We are very strong in chocolate," reports Mr. Lemmerling. "We have it from all over the world –Belgium, France, Switzerland, Austria, Russia, and Colombia – and from 50 percent cocoa to 90 percent cocoa."

Cote D'Or, Callebaut, Guylian, and Nirvana are all specialties from Belgium.

Then, there is the pastry display case in all its mouthwatering splendor! Tarts of all kinds, including the signature fruit tart, cakes, pies, cookies – all as delicious to look at as they are to eat.

"We have a wonderful pastry chef, Stacey Stimac, and people come in the morning just for her scones. She also makes custom special occasion cakes, including wedding cakes, and special butter cream to order," says Mr. Lemmerling.

Set Apart

Alex Levine, who has been chef at Bon Appetit for nearly two years, has put his imprint on many dishes, adds Mr. Lemmerling. "Just a sampling of his special dishes includes his outstanding frittata, his veal and turkey meatloaf, and his refreshing summer salads, all of which are very popular."

"Our salads have just a little twist, something that sets them apart," says Mr. Levine. "Our orso salad and tomato mozzarella are very popular. Also, I have a list of people who ask me about the soup, wanting their favorite. I make gallons and gallons of cold soup in the summer, also fruit soup and unusual cold soups.

"We also always have a hot soup, such as split pea, carrot ginger, or chicken noodle. Soup is a very big item."

"Generally in summer, we make lighter dishes, such as tabouleh, and we use local tomatoes and corn," continues Mr. Levine. "I like food that has character, and we offer grilled chicken breast with Spanish spice rub (a mixture of ground spices), as well as simple grilled food, such as grilled chicken or shrimp."

Fish dishes are popular, adds Mr. Lemmerling, noting "Salmon is always a favorite, and we have a variety of different seafood dishes, including grilled scallops which are very popular."

Veggies are definitely a favorite, says Chef Levine. "Cauliflower and roasted potatoes with balsamic vinegar are really in demand, and the asparagus and green beans are also popular. Our vegetables are often seasoned with herbs and flavored oils."

Concert Series

Many people like to take dishes, such as the all-time favorite chicken pot pie, home for dinner, reports Mr. Levine, who formerly worked in specialty food stores in San Francisco.

In addition, now with the outdoor weekly concert series at the Shopping Center, customers come for something to munch on. "People pick up the food before the concert and then enjoy it outside," he says. "I make a lot of sandwiches and fruit salad."

Catering is also an important part of Bon Appetit's business, with cocktail parties and small dinners a specialty. Currently, the catering department also has a lot of high school graduations lined up.

"We have beautiful platters all ready to go," says Chef Levine. "We have a catering menu. Just come in and let us know what you need."

Mr. Lemmerling is very happy with the way things have turned out at Bon Appetit after 15 years, and he notes that this special food emporium continues to grow and expand. "I always try to bring in new items and also to increase the clientele. I feel I have become a part of the community. People say 'Thank goodness you're here!' We're still growing, too, so we must be doing something right.

"I also want to add that a specialty store does not mean expensive. We're very competitive. We have top-of-the-line, but also a broad range of other products. Every day, I see new faces and others who have been friends for a long time. You have contact, and it's personal. Service is very important here. Customers like everything. Many come in for the cheese, but then they see something else.

"I think the quality and variety we carry sets us apart," he continues. "There is really nothing else like us in the area. You'd have to go to New York. The combination of everything is what makes us special."

Mr. Lemmerling has recently added cheese classes and tastings to Bon Appetit's "menu", and the next will be held June 30 at 7 p.m. It will include a guest speaker, question and answer session, tasting, and raffles. These have been very popular, so it is best to reserve early. The cost is $45.

Bon Appetit is open Monday through Friday 8 to 7, Saturday 9 to 6, Sunday 10 to 3. 924-7755.