Sandwich Shop Emerges As a Refurbished Haven

Matthew Hersh

Hoagie Haven, Princeton's near-legendary sub shop, has added more than customer space to its refurbished Nassau Street location. One important new element is its expanded menu. But, most notably there are two new but familiar faces behind the counter. After closing its doors for renovations, Hoagie Haven has emerged with new bosses, who are, incidentally, the same couple as the old bosses.

George and Emily Roussos, who bought Hoagie Haven from a family member in 1976, have taken over again as the principal operators of the Nassau Street mainstay. George Angelotopoulous, the former proprietor, who was a familiar presence at the register at Hoagie Haven, let his 15-year contract with the Roussos expire earlier this year to take time off to be with family and spend time on vacation. After a month of renovations, "The Haven" has returned as a brighter and more spacious establishment and is open for the business of new and devoted Princeton patrons and nocturnal creatures looking for late-night culinary treasures.

"We closed for badly needed renovations," Mrs. Roussos said while taking a breather from a typical daily lunch rush. She referred to Hoagie Haven's improved facilities that include new floors, refrigeration, counters, and customer space. Gone are the yellowed walls, the cluttered beverage refrigerators, and the Plexiglas partition that was seemingly ambered with antiquity.

The new Haven has, however, maintained all the elements that has made it a Princeton institution. The menu has retained all of its original items, and has actually been enhanced. Added specials include "Sanders Fries," whose namesake belongs to a regular customer who has a particular penchant for cheese fries with bacon. And while Hoagie Haven has set the standard for subs in the eyes of many faithfuls, it apparently is not too proud to follow suit of its disciples. The "Big Cat," which is four cheeseburgers on one hoagie roll bears a striking resemblance to the popular New Brunswick original, the "Fat Cat."

"It's like what they have at Rutgers," Mrs. Roussos said, immediately giving credit without being solicited.

A Popular Spot

Hoagie Haven's popularity can be traced back to Princeton University and Princeton High School tradition. Princeton University students have utilized the Haven for years as the perfect ending to a long night at the eating clubs. Princeton High School students have been known to spend their lunch periods there for a satiating alternative to standard cafeteria fare.

"I would say that the high school students start coming in around 10 a.m. and keep coming until after school has let out," Mrs. Roussos said when describing the establishment's large academic clientele. "We have many customers coming in on their free periods," she said. Mrs. Roussos went on to say that she and her husband can always rely on the "late-night rush" from University students.

Hoagie Haven's impact on the lives of many Princetonians cannot be understated, and though the cult-like devotion can be viewed as comical, it is something that people keep with them for years after they have left Princeton. Danielle Lindemann, a University graduate and a current graduate student at New York University, has created the online "Hoagie Haven Purity Test," a test that measures how "corrupted" one is by the Haven. Corruption levels are commensurate with the amount of knowledge or experience one has with Hoagie Haven. Criteria for corruption include having had a "romantic encounter" at or as a result the establishment; having reminisced about the "first time" at the Haven with an alum who is at least 20 years older; or hollering the oft-repeated Haven soundbyte, "saltpeppaketchup," when ordering food at other establishments.

Hoagie Haven has also been known as the last business in town to concede to inclement weather. Customers recalled past snowstorms where the Haven had no choice but to close because it finally ran out of bread due to curtailed bread delivery service. In contrast, the delivery companies were not so bold as this Princeton stalwart to venture out into the storm.

Liked the Grime

Dave Shragger, a Princeton resident and a Hoagie Haven client for 15 years has a bittersweet relationship with the changes that have been underway. "The price hasn't changed, and the food's still great," he said. However, Mr. Shragger has taken the purist, and minority opinion that Hoagie Haven's grimier vi sage more suited its reputation.

Mr. Shragger also pointed out that while Hoagie Haven is a fun place to grab a bite, it is also a tradition that is taken very seriously by those who adore it. He pointed out a new wooden bench directly outside on the sidewalk with a plaque attached to it celebrating the life of Peter Craig Alderman. Mr. Alderman, a victim of the World Trade Center attacks, also adored Hoagie Haven. Mr. Alderman's parents felt it was only appropriate to place a memorial honoring their son, with the tradition that he and thousands of other Princetonians love to call their own.